Indie in Antarctica

Outside
the long, low, grey buildings that make up Rothera Station, it's well below freezing.
The light is dim and weak and has been for months bathing the endless
fields of ice, towering glaciers and rocky peaks in a seemingly perpetual twilight.
This is Adelaide Island, Antarctica. It's one of the most remote places on Earth.
And one of the most beautiful.
It's also about the last place on Earth
you'd expect to find an indie band. But that's exactly where you'll find Nunatak.
The folk-rock five-piece is made up a handful of the twenty-two scientists and
support workers who are charged with the responsibility of holding down the fort
at Rothera over the dark winter months.
"We're pretty much the only band
within a few hundred miles," admits drummer Rob Webster over the phone from the
remote outpost. "As you might imagine, there's not a lot of live music down here."
Webster, a Meteorologist for the British Antarctic Survey, has been in Antarctica
for seven months, and won't return home until sometime in 2009. A native Scotsman
with a degree in Physics, he was working as a volunteer teacher in Nepal when
he saw a posting for a job at Rothera and leapt at the rare opportunity. "I really
wanted to come to Antarctica. It's always been a place that fascinated me; ever
since I was growing up.
"It's dark quite a lot of the time," he admits
with a chuckle. "And cold." But as far as he's concerned, the sacrifices are far
outweighed by the benefits. "One of the great things we get down here are the
lighting effects. There are the most incredible sunrises and sunsets when
the sun does rise and set.
"It's a good life."
And, of
course, there's the band too. Back home, Webster had been an avid techno and electronica
fan. When he headed south, he packed his guitar and fiddle, knowing he'd have
plenty of time to kill over those long winter months. When he arrived, he was
in for a pleasant surprise. "The music facilities are much better than I could
have imagined. I'd always wanted to play drums and there was a kit already down
here."
And so, earlier this year, he helped to form Nunatak thinking
that they'd never play for an audience bigger than the other 17 members of their
team.
He couldn't have been more wrong.
Thanks to Al Gore, Nunatak
will be performing for an audience of two billion at this weekend's Live Earth
concert (via satellite, of course). With events already scheduled on each of the
other six continents, the organizers of Gore's 24-hour climate change fundraiser
had originally hoped to fly an already established act onto the icy island and
make it all seven. But that proved to be impossible large planes can't land
on Rothera's small airstrips during the southern winter. So instead, they turned
to Nunatak.
For Webster, the Live Earth show means another chance to fight
for something he feels passionate about. "Climate change is the biggest problem
we face as a race of people. And that was part of the reason I came down here:
to help in some way; to do a small amount to help understand was happening.
"Rothera station, here, is the place on the planet where climate change is having
its most visible impact. There's been a three degree rise in temperature in the
last 50 years. There are lots of glaciers here, and we know from the long-term
data that they are retreating, and are retreating all over the continent."
Which means, in short: things need to change. If they don't, Adelaide Island might
not be the beautiful place it is much longer. And Webster, for one, is willing
to take up the fight whether it's with a weather balloon, or a pair of drum
sticks.
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